Stichting Veldwerk at Nepal

Secretariaat: Stichting Veldwerk Postbus 163 1850 AD Heiloo The Netherlands

Tel:+31 (0)72-5339585 veldwerk@wlink.com.np IBAN nr. NL51ABNA0543703266 Attn. Stichting Veldwerk, p/a Egmond binnen Bank: ABN-Amro 543703266

An acquaintance with the beauty of Nepal on a minitrek to Tibet.

To get to know each other a little bit better, René organised a three days mini trek for us. On Tuesday morning we left with a taxi to the bus station in Kathmandu from where the bus leaves to Barabhise. It's a busy and noisy scene; buses everywhere, smoking exhausts, running motors and loud horns. All I can see is signs in Nepali that to me might as well be advertisements instead of the destination of the bus. As it seems they do have a steady spot so luckily René knew where to go. The luggage was already on top of the roof; we had to stay inside until we got out of Kathmandu.
Quite an experience riding a brick like that while the busboy yells... Barabhise! Barabhise! Barabhise! Barabhise! (also for Nepali people that can't read). 10 meters out of the bus station we asked ourselves if the driver was actually licensed. He had absolutely no feeling for the gears of this vehicle. Up to three times he tried to accelerate in third gear when he suddenly put the bus in reverse and we almost lost our precious teeth on the seats in front of us. On our way out of Kathmandu we discovered the second important task of the busboy; knocking signals on the side of the bus to let the driver know when to stop for new passengers and when to move on. Later on when we were on top of the bus we were happy to know that a double knock meant move on! or HOLD ON!!!!


The first big town we arrived at, the bus got overcrowded and we escaped to the roof. Two knocks, grasp whatever you can and watch out for branches and cables. That didn't stop us from getting out our camera's to shoot the most beautiful pictures ever! The view is amazing! Sun in our face, wind through our hair while moving along the mountainous roads of Nepal.
The environment looks tropical with its clear green rice fields and big banana trees on the side of the road. In the background the white peaks of the Lang Tang Mountains. The villages get smaller and the houses we pass vary in quality and quantity. Beautifully red and white plastered houses with stroh rooftops on one hand, ruins made of wood and steel plates on the other. No difference in the people however, they all look up at us and smile at these strange white foreigners on top of the bus.


During the trip we pass numerous check points manned by army and police. Every time all the Nepali have to get off the bus, walk through the checkpoints and get on the bus approximately 150 meters down the road. In the meantime a soldier checks the bus for Maoists or guns, sometimes a bit more precise than others. Tourists are "guests" so we can remain in our seats. After a roadblock like that we proceed our journey, however not if the police have decided to put their roadblock right after that of the army.... very efficient! Imagine that we saw a group of Maoists walking the streets just 10 minutes after that... Okay, they didn't bother us, but it is a bit strange wouldn't you say?
A few hours later we arrive at Barabhise. From there we ascend 450 meters to a village on the mountain. It takes us about one hour and a half. We're sweating like crazy but the environment is magnificent. The path, made of rocks, crosses rice fields, now and than we pass a traditional house and friendly but curious people.


Finally we reach the family where we would spend the night. We are more then welcome, René used to stay with them many times before when he was building a school a bit higher up the mountain. The house is made of stone with white and red clay. The wooden balcony in front looks out over the valley. Below the balcony lives their buffalo on a pile of hay, together with some goats. The down floor is small and dark; this is the area of the house where everything takes place. Part of the floor is marked as kitchen and in the middle of the room some goat meat hangs down from the ceiling above yet another fireplace. Opposite to the kitchen in the corner is a stable where the goats stay in the mornings and evenings. A small crooked staircase leads to the top floor where they made three little rooms partly on the balcony. We have to be careful with our heads because of the low ceilings, especially at night.

When we got settled in the rooms we gather at the balcony. A bit afraid it wouldn't hold our weight but René insured us it would. However we did feel the thing move because the buffalo scratched his neck against the palls. No panic!!!

They treated us roxy as a welcome drink, a locally brewed drink that tastes like sour white wine. It's still warm when they poor it out of the jerry can. All in all a dangerous undertaking because the Maoists forbid people to brew their own alcohol. With mixed feelings we bring the cups of local pani to our lips. After a while they call us for diner and we sit on the floor with our right hands washed. They give us full plates and the whole family watches us as we eat the Dhal baat (rice and lentlesoup). They didn't touch their food until we were all finished. Meanwhile a group of Maoists came to the door. The family explained them the reason of our visit. They gave them food, we don't know if that was voluntarily. One of us sneaked upstairs to hide the roxy. About fifteen minutes after that they leave, everything seems to be alright although the atmosphere wasn't the same.


We sleep like babies that night and the next morning they wake us up with a glass of Nepali tea. After breakfast -beaten rice baked with sugar and salt- we get ready to leave. But before we hit the road we get a thika for good luck; a red dot of rice on our foreheads, some leaves of flowers on top of our heads and green grass behind our ears. We go down through the rice fields. By the time we get back to Bharabise the thika changed place from our foreheads to the top of our noses.
We head on to the bus that will take us to the Tibetan or Chinese border.
On top of the bus René warns us. This road is much worse than the one before. And yes...it's almost violent. Instead of the signs in the Alps that tells us rocks might fall down, over here the sign says “landslide area!” And it was! We pass one after the other landslide, old and new! Caused by...erosion through deforestation, irrigation of rice fields….and down goes everything, sometimes ruining whole villages. Especially in the monsoon period, but René tries to convince us that at this point in time we don't have to worry. He didn't succeed completely...


We're holding on tight as the bus proceeds towards the border alongside the Bhote Kosi River. In the meantime get shaken up pretty bad when we have to cross a pile of dirt and rocks. We pass villages of which the houses are built either on the side of the road but mostly on the side of the hill. People look at us with curiosity and we do the same. The bus drive proves to be a real challenge. It's almost like riding a bull or camel. However we enjoy every minute of the bystanders and the magnificent view. People look at us as if we are an attraction; eight white westerners on top of a Nepali bus puts a smile on their faces. We wave at one and other with enthusiasm.


A four hours drive and numerous check posts later, we reach the Tibetan or Chinese border. We get of the bus and the last part through Kodari -the Nepali village at the border- we do on foot. We pass some old sheds and a variety of dirty shops alongside a sandy road filled with holes, chickens, pigs and dirt. To get to the border we have to cross the Friendship Bridge. The bridge, 65 meters long, is like a piece of no-man's-land. In the middle a red stripe points out the border.
The Chinese side is tiled with etiquette; the Nepalese side is a big mess. Across the river we see the first Chinese city, Ghasa. A modern looking city with white buildings. A big difference to what we just saw a minute ago.
We rested for an hour and a half with a nice cup of tea. We had back the same way we came and get on the bus that takes us to the Borderland resort where we spent the night.


Along the way however we pass -what might be- the world's most beautiful bungee jump site. 165 meter down from a steel bridge across the Bhote Khosi river. Some of us want to jump so we bang on the roof of the bus to get the driver to stop. Everybody gets off, except for René; he went ahead with our luggage. We head for the bridge to take a closer look at the situation. It's definitely the spot to jump if you want to do it anyway.
Marjo and Didier take their chance and make the jump, straight down towards the river that runs through a narrow valley. After that a 20 minutes climb up and yet another experience of a lifetime.


When we're done we head for the Borderland resort on foot. It was dark by the time we got there but we were still able to see the beauty of the place. It's located right at the river, built on terraces with tents under stroh roofs with bamboo palls surrounded by tropical vegetation. In between narrow tiled paths, inside candlelight, bamboo beds and a beautiful table out of teakwood. Stroh mats on the floor.....it couldn't be better!

We took a shower outside under the starry sky....warm water however so very enjoyable. A Dhal baat buffet for diner and after that a campfire at the river. Time for a good night sleep with the roaring water of the Bhote Khosi river in the background.


The next morning we have an early breakfast. The bus that takes us to starting point of our rafting trip leaves at nine o'clock......but there was no bus. It's awfully quite down the road and slowly we start to wonder if maybe we've been cut of from the rest of the world. What's wrong...a landslide, the Maoists? After a while cars start passing by again and two hours later our bus arrives.

At a nice flat beach along the river we stop for a complete lunch. They briefed us about the rafting trip. With two boats we go down the river, sometimes at high speed, other times slow and easy. The two safety kayakers go ahead and turn it into a real show. In quiet water it doesn't take long for some of us to take a swim. In your lifejacket, dancing on the waves and moving with the current. The water is freezing but who can resist this free swimming pool.


In the meantime the bus follows us down the road and after a few hours we get of the boat. Tired but content we get in our warm fleeces and head for Kathmandu. Inside the bus this time, a good choice in retrospect, because the driver was in a hurry. And believe me; it would never pass the Dutch safety proceedings. Completely irresponsible the driver tries to get passed other cars on the narrow road. When we finally get near to Kathmandu, we end up in another traffic jam due to a check post. Not necessary in our case because we're tourists. The driver comes up with a lie and tells the safety guards that we have to catch the plane. It's almost nine o'clock when we get back to Thamel. And to end a beautiful trip we bought René diner and a good glass of Carlsberg beer.

All in all it was a great way to get acquainted with each other and Nepal!

Marjon Oude Aarninkhof.